The Pekoe Trail is a 300 km (186 mile) hiking route across Sri Lanka’s Central Highlands. It is split into 22 stages from Hanthana near Kandy to Nuwara Eliya. It passes through tea plantations, cloud forests, and rural villages. Each stage takes 3 to 6 hours. The best time to hike is January to March. A trail pass costs $10 per stage for foreign visitors. Hike the full trail in 16 to 22 days, or pick a few stages to fit your schedule.
At a Glance
- Total distance: 300+ km (186+ miles) across 22 stages.
- Start point: Ceylon Tea Museum, Hanthana (near Kandy).
- End point: Kandapola, near Nuwara Eliya.
- Best time to hike: January to March, also July to September.
- Trail pass cost: $10 USD per stage (foreign visitors) / 600 LKR (Sri Lankan residents).
- Essential app: The Pekoe Trail (iOS and Android). Required for the pass and maps.
- Fitness level: Moderate. No technical climbing, but expect steep ascents.
The mist lifted at about 7:30 in the morning, and suddenly the entire valley opened up below me. Tea bushes in every direction, bright green rows running down the hillside like corduroy. Somewhere below, a woman in a blue sari was plucking leaves, filling a bag slung over her shoulder. She looked up, smiled, and called out “good morning” in English. That was my first hour on the Pekoe Trail, and I hadn’t even reached the good part yet.
National Geographic named it one of the world’s top 20 travel experiences in 2024. TIME followed by listing it among the World’s Greatest Places for 2025. Since those two nods, the Pekoe Trail Sri Lanka has gone from a quiet hiking route to a genuine destination. It deserves the attention. But this isn’t a wilderness trek. You won’t be sleeping in tents or filtering river water. The trail passes through living communities, working tea estates, and small towns. You can buy a hot cup of Ceylon tea for 50 LKR (about $0.15) at a roadside stall any morning of the week.
The name itself tells the story. “Pekoe” refers to a grade of high-quality black tea. The entire 300 km route follows paths that tea workers, planters, and villagers have used for more than a century. Hiking in Sri Lanka doesn’t get more authentic than this.
This guide covers the Pekoe Trail stages worth hiking, what it costs, and what to pack. I’ve also included the honest details that other guides leave out, like leeches and closed stages. I’ve walked eight stages across two trips in March 2024 and February 2025. I’ll tell you exactly what to expect.
What Is the Pekoe Trail?
The Pekoe Trail is Sri Lanka’s first long-distance point-to-point walking route. It stretches over 300 km (186 miles) through the Central Highlands, from Hanthana near Kandy all the way to Nuwara Eliya. The trail is divided into 22 stages. Each averages about 12 km (7.5 miles) and takes between 3 and 6 hours.
It’s not a simple straight line. The route loops through four main regions: Kandy, Hatton, Haputale, and Ella. Each region has a different character. The Kandy stages pass through dense forest and old colonial estates. The Hatton stages climb higher into mist and eucalyptus. Around Haputale, the ridgeline views stretch to the southern coast on clear mornings. The Ella stages are the most popular, offering easy access to the famous Nine Arches Bridge.
Important Update for 2026: Not all 22 stages are open. As of January 2026, 16 stages were open with full signage. Stage 10 (Dayagama to Horton Plains) was closed indefinitely due to access negotiations. Always check the official Pekoe Trail app for the latest status before you book anything.
The 6 Best Pekoe Trail Stages (And Which One to Pick)
Choosing which Pekoe Trail stages to hike is the hardest part of planning. Twenty-two stages is a lot. Most visitors don’t have three weeks, so here are my six picks ranked by experience.
Stage 1: Hanthana to Galaha (The Classic Start)
Distance: 12.8 km (8 miles) | Time: 4 hours | Difficulty: Moderate
The trail begins at the Ceylon Tea Museum on the Hanthana Estate. It’s worth a visit before you start. From there, you climb through tea plantations with views of Kandy spreading out behind you. On a clear day, you can see the Victoria Reservoir and the Knuckles Mountain Range.
Mahesh’s Warning: The descent into Galaha gets muddy and damp, specifically in the forest near the river crossing at the 10.8 km mark. This is where leeches show up. I didn’t bring leech socks on my first trip. By the end, I was pulling three of them off my ankles at the Galaha Post Office. Buy leech socks in Kandy (about 1,000 LKR) before you start.
Stage 3: Loolkandura to Tawalantenne (Tea History)
Distance: 17.9 km (11 miles) | Time: 5-6 hours | Difficulty: Hard
This is the stage for anyone who cares about Sri Lanka’s tea story. Loolkandura Estate is where James Taylor planted the first tea seedlings in Sri Lanka back in 1867. The trail passes “James Taylor’s Seat,” a viewpoint where the Scottish planter supposedly sat and looked out over his fields.
It’s a long day on your feet. Carry extra water for this one. I ran low at the 14 km mark and didn’t find a shop until Tawalantenne.
Stage 9: Bogawantalawa to Dayagama (Remote Views)
Distance: 16 km | Time: 5 hours | Difficulty: Moderate-Hard
This is one of the most scenic and remote stages. The route crosses high-altitude tea country with rolling hills that disappear into cloud. You’ll see very few other hikers here. On my February 2025 trip, I passed through a small estate village where a worker stopped to show me how she plucks the leaves. “Only pekoe,” she said, holding up the tiny shoots. That five-minute conversation taught me more about tea than any museum.
Stage 13: Haputale to St. Catherine (Ridgeline Walk)
Distance: 13.5 km | Time: 4-5 hours | Difficulty: Moderate-Hard
Haputale is one of the best base towns on the trail. From the ridgeline, you can sometimes see all the way to the southern coast on a clear morning. Lipton’s Seat is a short detour from the main trail. Get there before 10:00 AM because the mist closes in fast.
Stage 16: Ella to Demodara (The Crowd Pleaser)
Distance: 9.5 km (5.9 miles) | Time: 3 hours | Difficulty: Easy
If you only have one day, do this one. The trail leaves Ella town, cuts through the Ella Forest Reserve, and crosses the famous Nine Arches Bridge. You’ll see plenty of other visitors at the bridge, so arrive early for photos without crowds. The stage ends at Demodara station, where the railway line spirals through a tunnel under the station itself.
Tip: Start from Ella at 6:30 AM. You’ll reach the Nine Arches Bridge before 8:00 AM, well ahead of the tour bus crowds.
Stages 11-12: Horton Plains (The Wild Card)
I haven’t hiked these myself because Stage 10 was closed on both my trips. If they reopen, these stages pass through Horton Plains National Park, a UNESCO site with dramatic cliffs. Be prepared for the cost. Horton Plains charges about $50 per person for foreign visitors.
Planning Your Hike: Costs and Logistics
Trail Pass and the App
Every hiker needs a trail pass. It costs $10 USD per stage for foreign visitors and 600 LKR per stage for Sri Lankan residents. Children under 12 hike free. You buy your pass through the official Pekoe Trail app (available on iOS and Android).
This isn’t just a suggestion. The trail crosses 21 private tea estates. Without a valid pass, landowners can ask you to leave. The pass also gives you access to the app’s GPS navigation and offline maps. Download the maps on the morning of your hike.
Getting There
Most hikers base themselves in one of four towns:
- Kandy: Stages 1 to 3. Train from Colombo takes 3.5 hours.
- Hatton: Stages 4 to 8. Train from Kandy takes 3 hours.
- Haputale: Stages 9 to 14. Train from Kandy takes 5 hours.
- Ella: Stages 15 to 17. Train from Kandy takes 6 to 7 hours.
Packing List: What I Wish I’d Packed
Your feet are going to do a lot of work, so start there. Proper hiking shoes with ankle support and good grip are essential. The trails are a mix of gravel roads, stone tracks, and mud.
- Leech socks: I can’t stress this enough. Leeches are real on the Pekoe Trail, especially on stages 1 through 3 near Kandy. You can buy them in Kandy for about 1,000 LKR. Tuck your pants into them and you’ll be fine.
- Water: Carry at least 2 liters per stage. Remote stages have very few refill points.
- Rain gear: A light rain jacket saves you from sudden downpours, even in the dry season.
- Cash: Carry small bills (100 and 500 LKR notes) for roadside tea and tuk-tuks.
Why This Trail Stays With You
I came to Sri Lanka the first time for beaches and temples. The Pekoe Trail changed what I thought I knew about this country. Walking through a tea estate in the morning mist, waving to workers heading to the fields, and stopping for a sweet cup of milk tea at a roadside stall. Those are the moments that stick.
The Pekoe Trail is still growing. Stages are still opening. By hiking now, you’re supporting a nonprofit trail system that sends real money into rural communities that need it. Every $10 trail pass goes toward maintaining paths and installing signage. If you’re planning a trip to Sri Lanka in 2026, give the trail at least two days. You won’t regret it.
Author:
Mahesh Jayasekara
– Oreta Travels –
